How to rig a Dyer
Both gel coat and paint can be fast. Gel coat should be sanded to 600 grit. Paint can be sanded lightly to take off the gloss. Make sure there are no cracks around the skeg as they can lead to leaks. Check also for leaks around the rudder pintals and caulk under the fitting, if needed.
Rails & Seats
Sand and reapply varnish on the rails each year. Make sure that the varnish coats the gap between the rail and the hull. It may help to throughbolt the back corner brackets, all of the seat knees, and the front oarlock that hold the shrouds. Make sure the mast step plate is tightly secured to the front seat. Tighten all the screws on the seats. Make sure the board that holds in the back floatation is secure.
Tape the swages on both ends of the shrouds, to be sure there are no rough edges. Make sure the mast base is tightly attached.
Halyard – ¼” min x 30'.
Mainsheet - 1/4" min x 35'. (Note that main fastener on newer aluminum booms cannot take greater than 1/4" line.)
Outhaul - will vary by set up - 3/16 min x 16' - If going around forward block & back, less otherwise. Note that the leads on the newer aluminum booms can’t handle line in excess of 1/4", unless you add a block.
Forestay adjuster – length varies depending on the length of the forestay. Approximately 8’ and 3/16" - 1/4" line.
Boom vang - varies by set up - 3/16" - x about 8'.
Downhaul - 1/4" min x about 3'.
Painter - 1/4" x 15' - preferably floatable line.
Traveler – 1/4” x 7’ of high tech spectra or wire. (11” of gap from top of the back board, +- 1/2”.)
Bungees or line to hold on the paddle. Strings to attach the cotter pins for the thole pins. Line to attach the bailer.
Centerboard and rudder can be painted with bottom paint and then lightly sanded (600 grit).